Saturday, December 15

A tale of two screens


In perfumes there are two things to remember - a composition is either "photo" realism or total abstraction. Everything which falls between is "wrong" and after several years becomes only an idea, not a perfume. With time a creation can be improved because new ingredients appear, some not available or not known when the initial scent was launched. Often, with time, experience, and no "emotional" approach, the work can be perfected in the right direction. Call it "artificial selection" something Nature does during a long period of time. A perfume "works" only when it achieves the "natural" approach - it smells as if it was there for centuries like a flower or a fruit - never out of fashion, only out of season. 
Eau de Bulgari au thé vert was a very good perfume, but not perfect and with some "mistakes". Now, after so many years, it is obvious to me that it is the perfume of Alberto Morillas, launched soon after and which you probably know, that was a better work because it took abstraction where it should have been. Sales and genealogy are there to show. But, another thing emerges too - now, there are several ingredients which were not available when the Bulgari amazing scent was launched .... this means that the other direction can "bloom" very soon. Probably "near" Bulgari in the perfume universe.
You can fool the "conscious" nose with a trick of two molecules, but never the brain when complex things are missing inside.
Illusion is real only when it is perfect in details :) 

Original Bulgari rebalanced + Splendione family + the natural Firmenich extracts + a Synarome old product + aldehydic magnolia based on a new citrus product = CAMELLIA a perfume très abstrait for Coco because THE VERT= Camellia sinensis the flowers you see on the old Coromandel screens. The "secret"? a trace of a honey note and a very very old essential oil. The reason is ... chemistry.
Coco owned 32 folding screens and eight of them were housed at 31 rue Cambon.

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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