With a name (Aqua Chic) which evokes instantly to any Parisian the recent launch of Patricia Nicolai called l'Eau Chic, the new flankers from Thierry Mugler are anything than chic and elegant. These fresh variations of two classic "heavy" perfumes, one based on the outdated caramel-patchouli overdose, the other on the massive cashmeran-jasmin sambac accord, show that you cannot perform any operation in perfume design. Both are insipid compositions, like any diluted fake Mugler perfumes, less concentrated but available all over Europe, lacking style and an original approach. Despite the use of an anisic note in the Alien version, the trick doesn't work. You cannot dilute Alien with the fresh anisic rose of Verry Irresistible (Givenchy) - the result is extremely cheap even if you put a lemony ginger. The same applies for Angel who became known because of it overdose. Once you dilute it, you fall into all the perfumes who were inspired by the gourmand touch of the original 1992 perfume. An original aspect of Angel Aqua Chic evokes the oriental subtlety of Le Baiser du Dragon (Cartier) but the result is cheap, obvious and not elegant.
Unfortunately, Mugler is not able for an evolution beyond the stickiness which made its fortune, but like any trend in perfumes, this approach is now outdated and vulgar. Both perfumes come with a sophisticated marketing text, none of them resist when the perfumes are tested. They smell cheap and the marketing ideas do not fit the original formulae which cannot be twisted at will.
Forget flankers, start to create perfumes and hire a new team less brain washed by the "Angel" myth!
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art