Friday, November 30

Where are the British perfumers?


I can understand that Russian and German perfumers are not understood in New York at MAD (The Art of Scent Catalogue), that Jacques, Ernest and Edmond are not happy, or that American School in perfumes starts around Clinique in 1971, but the perfumers of her Majesty???? That's a surprise in the year of the Jubilee.
I wrote on many occasions about the British art of perfumes since the XVIIIth century and I know a man very sad in this moment. His name is Septimus Piesse (1820-1882) author of "The art of perfumery" and many things. 
Sic transit gloria mundi ... per-fumum.

Perfume as an art starts with many, many, many readings, a solid base because top notes go like champagne. 
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What is Early American school ....????

For someone without a perfume culture, the american style starts yesterday with the body spray used by his high school teacher.
American style starts with Chicago era, Franck Lloyd Wright and those perfumes composed by the early american perfumers. Those formulae, notebooks and bottles exist. They invented several things, but people do not know. The true year for this "style" is not 1971 as written near Aromatics Elixir in the coffret, but   around 1871. However, it is not my "duty" to present what is supposed to be American ... I still need a visa for the exhibition.
Besides the historical error, there is one even bigger "Early American School" is a "time and place" category, while others in the list are aesthetic. 
However, one must know what is the true scent genealogy of Aromatics Elixir, what inspired the amazing Clinique perfume and the Hungarian girl called Esty, before adding to it such a label - "Early American School". This accord was invented elsewhere with the right accent to sound french.
There is nothing inside "Aromatics Elixir", a very beautiful perfume, that is very American, considering at least the types of perfumes made, sold and appreciated since WWII. One of the most famous and original American perfumes belongs to the XIXth century, but it is100% natural and "masculine".
Bernard CHANT is laughing because he knows :)

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Something Hungarian....

BELA was here! Textile house built in 1901 in Lugos when Bela Lugosi started his acting career in the building next to this house before moving to Budapest 100 years ago. No couture textiles this afternoon when I took the photo, just a very dark perfume in the air before midnight - this house is near a bridge. He was son to a banker (that house has a very beautiful ornament related to perfumes).






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The ART of SCENT - the perfumers honored in New York at MAD

I know at least 3 names which are sad about MAD - Jacques, Ernest, and Edmond - because there is something missing in the air. The reason why I prepare a casa nova, much bigger, suited for such strong personalities.
Until then, the beautiful photos of the great perfumers honored in New York for the Art of Scent (1889-2012) exhibition. Do not forget to buy the perfume coffret. It is unique (Details HERE).









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Olivier Cresp - ANGEL No5

The new No5 is .... Angel because there is no Chanel perfume inside "The Art of Scent" exhibition coffret box. With Light Blue from the same perfumer, we expect Marlene Dietrich to make an apparition inside the Museum. Blue Angel wearing a drop of "Shanghai Lily" I made.
Once you remove the brand from history the perfume becomes something very different. Which is quite normal because brands are just "hosts" for the scent - houses for one night or for many years like Ritz was for COCO.
There is something about Angels ... they love sweets and rococo style - they play in a boudoir with words, stories, ribbons. If MAD says ANGEL is "surrealism", it is because angels play above the REAL, like perfumers. Scent is in the air, it has something from a dream.





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Eau de la Reine de Hongrie

L'eau de la Reine de Hongrie provient d'une fontaine merveilleuse et oubliée comme cette source qui se trouvait en Hongrie avant Trianon où j'ai suis parti tôt ce matin pour boire de l'eau. Les formules anciennes véritables se respectent à l'identique.


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The Art of Scent Exhibition Catalogue - BUY



The Art of Scent Exhibition Catalogue for pre-sale in the MAD Store. For Pre-Sale now, $250, limited-edition, a thousand catalogues individually numbered 1 to 1,000. Ships mid-December. It contains 11 works of art and 11 essays written by Chandler BURR.

MAD STORE website

Waiting for my Own Copy this december after many years with the art of perfumes.
Olivier Cresp is No5 in the "Art of Scent" set with blue Angel because the Chanel perfume is not available.


The 11 works are:

01 Romanticism
Jicky
1889
Aimé Guerlain

02  Abstract Expressionism
L'Interdit,
1957
Francis Fabron

03 Early American School
Aromatics Elixir
1971
Bernard Chant

04 Industrialism
Drakkar Noir
1982
Pierre Wargnye

05 Surrealism
Angel
1992
Olivier Cresp

06 Minimalism
L'Eau d'Issey
1992
Jacques Cavallier

07 Photo Realism
Pleasures
1995
Annie Buzantian, Alberto Morillas

08  Kinetic Sculpture
Light Blue
2001
Olivier Cresp

09 Neo-Romanticism
Prada Amber
2004
Carlos Benaïm, Max Gavarry, Clément Gavarry

10 Luminism
Osmanthe Yunnan
2006
Jean-Claude Ellena

11 Post-Brutalism
Untitled
2010
Daniela Andrier
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Wednesday, November 28

S

S comme Sever, my middle name - a bottle on my wish list from Palais Royal, among other treasures I deserve from the purple store of souls.






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MASTERPIECE

Never make the confusion between a masterpiece and a bestseller. For a perfumer, the masterpiece is always inside a plain bottle, often without a label by own mistake. Bottles without a "pedigree" hide beauties far more interesting than those bottled for the "ordinary" nose. The ONE nobody wants because it has no "letter". The old story of the Chinese "lamp" ....

Bad picture with ingredients from Rallet
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WIENERIN - Classic style and timeless perfumes

Discover the secret scents in WIEN - 5 perfume pages, amazing illustrations and several surprises for you. Octavian, Gaïa and Sylvaine in a scented interview by Alexandra Grünwald for WIENERIN.

OCTAVIAN: "A classic perfume is instantly recognizable, it has no age, it has a perfect harmony. It has unity and variety with a profound and unforgettable effect. Experiencing a classic perfume is like discovering a scent created by Nature - the first time when you smell a champaca flower in bloom. When a perfumer creates a classic fragrance he creates a "natural" scent with an "organic" development, if we consider this XIXth century design concept. "Classic" is the way Nature conceives the perfumes. A classic is an unforgettable presence. It changes without changing, versatile when fashion changes through decades. It has a "je ne sais quoi". There are more and more examples of good perfumes. You can experience Iris Poudre (Fr.Malle), Opardu (Puredistance), Infusion d'Iris Absolu (Prada), all with an orris theme, and, of course, Diorling (Dior), MUST (Cartier, the black version) and the original extract version of Après l'Ondée (Guerlain)."

Of course, there are many other beautiful secrets, the original interview in English is very long.



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THE ODOR

A short video interview with me on December 1st, inside "Le Palais Baroque" (ROMANIA, 1733). 
My perfumes on the Franz Joseph table. Thanks DIGITV! 
Thoughts about a future exhibition very very very different from New York style with all the elements of the 8th ART - the PERFUME. Perfume is an ART when you frame it with masterpieces from all centuries and you experience half a drop of real "stuff" on a limited waiting list on the other side of the Globe. Not Sephora like...THE ODOR goes digital with lost perfumes from Roure, Givaudan, Firmenich and Symrise on this table plus, very soon, RALLET.



Bag with masterpieces and ground with cigarettes.
PER FUMUM

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Sunday, November 25

The secret ingredient


New brands, new launches, new perfumes, new photos, new seduction, new press releases. My readers will soon realize that "the secret ingredient" I evoke is not a metaphor but something real and highly prized when possessed. 
What makes a perfume last in the "field" of beautiful creatures? What makes a name more important than other names? What formula is better when everything smells good? Consider that you are not a consumer but the owner of a small brand and you see how your products are not desired anymore after 5 years. Your star is fading when other stars start to shine in the beautiful constellation of scents....
A consumer is always tempted in an endless game of seduction. Because Internet is a flux of information in a non scented universe far away from a boutique, the natural laws are not the same.
What makes the difference?
The perfume market is not expanding right now, it's the number of products which is bigger in a new order.
Perfume today is like fashion at Versailles. It fades before it has the time to shine unless "the secret ingredient" is added to the formula, something like a magnet. Something very expensive considered alone, but very reasonable when you consider the entire production line launched on the market. Something humble which brings the whole glitter of commercial success. It is something from the natural world....you'll hardly guess because few know what's inside a Perfume and how the transparent liquid is really made to last more than other scented transparent fluids.
Nature invented many tricks for survival in the jungle. Tomorrow many brands will disappear, many perfumes will be "covered", many voices will not be heard, like a forgotten garden from an old castle invaded by capricious vines and climbing roses with thorns (the pictures from the emerald forest I posted several months ago).
Everything is beautiful in the universe of scents, but not necessarily long lasting on the market. It has little to do with marketing as taught in business schools. Sooner or later, those who launched perfumes in the past 5 years will understand that I'm not using metaphors.
Some flowers will bloom once again in spring. Every flower, every fruit, every perfume is consumed physically. Without the "magnet", the bottle is as plain as ART - MONA LISA sealed in glass at Louvre. "Consume" the perfume and it will live for ever in your memory - this is why brands without one of the secret ingredients will not survive.

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Saturday, November 24

Perfume for Her Majesty - The Royal Society of Chemistry creates bespoke perfume inspired by diamonds

I am one of the happy few who has the perfume made in 1950's for Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, by Guerlain. It is an ode to jasmine, overdosed by the most famous house in Paris. It is also the theme chosen by Chanel for 1932, the homage to the 80 years anniversary of Chanel diamond jewels, a jasmine with everything modern (read my old articles on the new ingredients written when the formula was made).
But now, another glorious perfume was made to honor the Queen. It is the creation of the Royal Society of Chemistry - a Diamond jubilee Christmas present.
The perfume, which was presented to the Queen at Buckingham Palace was created with her reign and interests in mind representing the many facets of our Queen’s personality Named "Adamas" (diamond in Greek), it is a green floral fragrance with modern twists.
Perfumers Stephene Bengana and Ange Stavrevka wanted to reflect the impressive length of time her Majesty has been on the throne by using fragrances that were characteristically worn at the time of her coronation.
  "The Royal inspired perfume has a light sweet scent formed from the peach and pear notes combined with Lilly of the valley, rose, Indian Jasmine and Tuberose oils, with Canadian Cedar Leaf oil adding a deeper, slightly warmer edge to the fragrance. Jamaican Pimento Leaf, Sri Lankan Cinnamon leaf and Australian Sandalwood oils also help form the warm subtle base behind the perfume." However, it has no obvious relation to the original Guerlain perfume made for the Queen. Add to this formula the two botanic roses depicted in the famous 15th century dynastic battle and you will obtain the perfect modern perfume which embodies the feminine essence today, a royal choice. (English roses are not equal to the flowers known in France, but they appear in the old Guerlain formulae of the XIXth century).
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Shay and Blue


Adieu CHANEL Paris, bonjour Shay and Blue London! Everybody is leaving today the Chanel House, even the lion. The best from Chanel enters now a new luxury brand with all the ingredients which are too expensive for the mainstream house.
Discover the Shay and Blue stories on FACEBOOK from the man who made the EXCLUSIVE Chanel perfumes.
Beautiful bags. I accept them only if they are delivered with a private jet. No small samples allowed. Luxury has its rules. 
The caps of the bottle are even more beautiful than this Fra Angelic shade. You'll see why I recommend this brand, a must smell this December.


Shay & Blue store (80 York St, Old Marylebone)

Atropa Belladonna - the trend I presented you earlier this year
Blood Oranges - The note who won the OSCAR in June when I was in the jury
Amber Rose - long time favorite
Sicilian Limes - all time coup de foudre
Suffolk Lavender - the perfect English lavender for BOY Capel
Almond Cucumber - poison becomes angel (the name hides a real flower I adore).
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Thursday, November 22

SOS COSMETIQUE - l'industrie française cause l'extinction des requins

BLOOM sort une étude inédite sur la production mondiale d'huile de foie de requin. "Nous estimons que plus de trois millions de requins profonds, espèces particulièrement vulnérables, sont capturés chaque année pour ce marché et que celui-ci fournit essentiellement le secteur cosmétique."
La production est estimée en 2012 à 2 000-2 200 tonnes (une baisse de plus de 20 % par rapport à 2010). Environ 90 % de ce total est destiné à la production de squalane pour le secteur cosmétique, 9 % pour le marché de la nutraceutique et 1 % à d’autres usages.

Le squalane végétale est environ 30 % plus cher que le squalane de requin. De grandes multinationales du secteur cosmétique ont ainsi été trompées par leurs fournisseurs sur la nature du squalane qu’elles achetaient.
Le consommateur ne peut pas savoir si le produit qu’il achète contient ou non du
squalane issu de requin. La réglementation en vigueur ne contraint pas à mentionner l’origine du squalane dans l’étiquetage (Directive du Conseil 76/768/CEE).


A lire le rapport sur le SQUALENE (résumé) et la version Integrale - la disparition "cosmétique" des requins.


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Naked truth - MADONNA - TRUTH OR DARE NAKED - new perfume

Following the success of the first perfume, Madonna launches a new interpretation - TRUTH OR DARE NAKED. Sensual exotic notes (cocoa, orchid) are more important in the naked version following a theme I presented several years ago - EXOTICA - the blend between EROTICA album and the exotic night flowers.
In exotic places, white flowers are naked and worn naked. This is the idea of the perfume produced by Coty, combining eroticism with an exotic touch.
The perfume TRUTH OR DARE NAKED is creamy woody with vanilla and flowers, honeysuckle, peach blossom, neroli, vanilla orchid, cocoa flower, lily of the valley, cedar wood, LAOS benzoin, oud, Australian sandalwood.


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Wednesday, November 21

The ART of Scent - first pictures from the exhibition at MAD New York 1889-1992


First pictures from The Art of Scent 1892-1992 curated by Chandler Burr in New York.


The exhibition focuses on twelve works made between 1889 and 2012, and will include Jicky, created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889, Jean-Claude Ellena’s Osmanthe Yunnan from 2006; and Daniela Andrier’s Untitled, created in 2010. Each scent was selected by curator Chandler Burr to reveal the evolution of aesthetics in the medium or to illustrate major innovations in scent design. Among the innovations was the introduction of synthetic raw materials, which appeared in the late nineteenth century. Before then, the creation of scents was limited to only natural ingredients; synthetics transformed artisanal products into works of art.













 

Photos: Ric Kallaher
Courtesy of the Museum of Arts and Design.

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Conférence OSMOTHEQUE: LA SENTEUR : UN PÉCHÉ MIGNON

Séance thématique Osmothèque, 
le Samedi 1er Décembre:
14h30 à 17h00
par Yves TANGUY à Versailles

Guidés par nos osmothécaires-parfumeurs, vous sentirez les principales matières premières et serez initiés à la classification des parfums en découvrant des chefs d’oeuvre disparus : Houbigant, Coty, Poiret, Guerlain…
Émerveillez vos sens à travers l'univers gourmand de la vanille, de la cannelle, du cacao, du caramel et du réglisse.
Découvrez l'histoire de la parfumerie de l'Antiquité à nos jours sous un angle nouveau ! 5 notes gourmandes sous 3 aspects : la matière première, le parfum et une dégustation!

SUR RESERVATION UNIQUEMENT

Par téléphone au 01.39.55.46.99
ou par mail osmotheque@gmail.com
Public : à partir de 12 ans
Tarifs : Plein tarif : 20€ / Tarif réduit : 15€ *
*(enfants, étudiants, membre SAO et groupe à partir de 10 personnes)
Heure de rendez-vous : 14h20
Lieu : 36 rue du parc de Clagny - 78 000 VERSAILLES

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Tuesday, November 20

Tamatoys - scent, sex, perversion from JAPAN

Forget "Secretions Magnifiques" from Paris and the unscented Fountain ready made by Marcel Duchamps. Now, you have something even more perverse - A new perfume from Tamatoys called "The Smell of a Boy’s Anus" has been added to the collection of perfumes with unusual scents inspired by body odors and fetishism. It smells like a dirty musk.
The other odors reproduce the notes of armpit, urine and leg.
All notes have been previously used in 5 perfumes from Palais Royal (Shiseido), but they were never advertised this way. They were artistically blended inside a seductive bouquet. Other perfumes of life, the most intriguing from an anthropological point of view have been recreated in Paris many years ago by a famous perfumer. I had the chance to discover them. What an experience!








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Monday, November 19

Quand les parfums jouent aves les mots -SAO - conférence

Après le succès de la première présentation, Nicolas vous propose une nouvelle conférence sur les parfums, les marques et les noms. A la veille du Saint Nicolas, patron des merveilles et des parfumeurs à l'Est, découvrez des merveilles à la Galérie Nicolaï, mardi 4 décembre 2012 avec Nicolas Olczyk - des noms et des images au service du PARFUM.
Pour les sages une friandise saveur curaçao.


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MAD exhibition - catalog of perfumes for the 8th ART - ART OF SCENT 1892-1992


The new catalog of the exhibition ART OF SCENT 1889-2012 will be ready very soon. A pre-sale is scheduled on The Store at MAD site these days. Check the website if you do not want to miss your copy.
Discover The Art of Scent 1889-2012 exhibition in New YORK.

The catalogue will retail for $250 and there are only 1,000 catalogues. Each catalogue is numbered, 1 – 1,000. The catalogue will contain 11 of the 12 works of olfactory art exhibited by Chandler Burr in his exhibition. Each work is contained in a 5ml vial. You will thus be able to take home the exhibition—or buy the exhibition without coming to New York.
The exhibition focuses on twelve works made between 1889 and 2012, and will include Jicky, created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889, Jean-Claude Ellena’s Osmanthe Yunnan from 2006; and Daniela Andrier’s Untitled, created in 2010. Each scent was selected by curator Chandler Burr to reveal the evolution of aesthetics in the medium or to illustrate major innovations in scent design. Among the innovations was the introduction of synthetic raw materials, which appeared in the late nineteenth century. Before then, the creation of scents was limited to only natural ingredients; synthetics transformed artisanal products into works of art.

The 11 works in the catalogue available soon at The Store at MAD:

01 Romanticism
Jicky 1889
Aimé Guerlain
Lent by Guerlain

02  Abstract Expressionism
L’Interdit,1957
Francis Fabron
Lent by Givenchy and Givaudan

03 Early American School
Aromatics Elixir, 1971
Bernard Chant
Lent by The Estée Lauder Companies and International Flavors and Fragrances

04 Industrialism
Drakkar Noir, 1982
Pierre Wargnye
Lent by l’Oréal International Flavors and Fragrances

05 Surrealism
Angel, 1992
Olivier Cresp
Lent by Clarins and Firmenich

06 Minimalism
L’Eau d’Issey, 1992
Jacques Cavallier
Lent by BPI and Firmenich

07 Photo Realism
Pleasures, 1995
Annie Buzantian, Alberto Morillas
Lent by The Estée Lauder Companies and Firmenich

08  Kinetic Sculpture
Light Blue, 2001
Olivier Cresp
Lent by Dolce & Gabbana, P&G Prestige, and Firmenich

09 Neo-Romanticism
Prada Amber, 2004
Carlos Benaïm, Max Gavarry, Clément Gavarry
Lent by Prada, Puig, and International Flavors & Fragrances

10 Luminism
Osmanthe Yunnan, 2006
Jean-Claude Ellena
Lent by Hermès

11 Post-Brutalism
Untitled, 2010
Daniela Andrier
Lent by l’Oréal and Givaudan

The catalogue will also contain a booklet written by Chandler Burr and 11 essays on the art historical context of each of the 11 works.


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Eau de Toilette - la journée mondiale des toilettes

J'ai décidé de ne plus employer le terme "eau de toilette" dans les parfums et de changer tous les termes afin de les adapter mieux au culte du Parfum. Puisqu'aujourd'hui, lundi 19 novembre, c’est la journée mondiale des toilettes, j'ai une histoire officielle - l'eau est de rigueur cette saison. La voilette aussi. Voilà pourqoui les hommes aimaient la Fontaine de Duchamps.... et craignent les odeurs.



Press Release

Saviez-vous qu'il y a sur notre terre 2.4 milliards d'individus qui vivent encore aujourd'hui sans toilettes.
En Belgique, la population attache une grande importance à l’hygiène des locaux sanitaires. Par contre, dans les écoles, et autres lieux publics, on peut parler d’une infection dans certains établissements tellement l’hygiène et la propreté des toilettes laissent à désirer…

Les établissements scolaires sont souvent pointés du doigt pour l'hygiène de ces lieux, un très grand nombre d'élèves craignent de s’y rendre et préfèrent se retenir, et attendre d'être à la maison. Il en va de même dans bon nombre de lieux publics…

Se retenir afin d'éviter d'aller aux toilettes peut engendrer des problèmes de santé. Cystite et constipation sont les premières à se manifester, et là, nous ne vous apprenons rien. Afin d'éviter de devoir y aller, les enfants s'abstiendraient même de boire durant la journée ! Ces problèmes de santé se feront ressentir toute la vie et s’aggraveront avec l’âge.

Dans les écoles, les appareils sanitaires traditionnels ne sont pas étudiés pour de tels débits sur le temps d’une récréation. Dans certains locaux d’établissement qui ont été visités, les responsables ne parlent pas de toilettes sales ou vétustes, mais plutôt d’une infection, ou de zone sinistrée. Il y a pourtant une solution radicale et définitive aux problèmes d'odeurs et d'hygiène dans ces lieux, les toilettes air9 ont été étudiées pour des usages intensifs. Les odeurs sont inexistantes et les utilisateurs peuvent se soulager en toute sérénité.

Aujourd’hui, on retrouve les WC et urinoirs sans odeurs un peu partout en Belgique et en France. Ecole, entreprise, galerie commerciale, parc d’attractions, gare, aéroport, café, snack, restaurants, hôtel, maison de repos, hôpitaux et lieux publics en tout genre. La clientèle des toilettes sans odeurs est sans limite. Des milliers des toilettes et urinoirs ont été installés, le particulier représente également une grande partie de la clientèle. Voir nos références sur  www.air9.be

Plusieurs écoles sont déjà équipées de ce genre de toilettes sans odeurs. Citons par exemple, l’école Notre Dame des Rhosnes de Frasnes-lez-Anvaing, l’école d’Hacquegnies, l’Athénée Royale de Saint-Ghislain, le Collège du Sacré Cœur de Ganshoren, etc.
Mr Pierre Lesnes, directeur de l’école Notre Dame des Rhosnes de Frasnes-lez-Anvaing, jusque là gêné de ses locaux sanitaires, se vente aujourd’hui d’avoir les toilettes les plus propres du monde. Il signale qu’il y a moins de travail pour les entretenir car les enfants sont plus respectueux lorsque les locaux sont sains….

Il y a clairement un souci au niveau des sanitaires dans les lieux publics, des solutions existent pourtant…il faudrait que le monde politique s’en inquiètent…

La société Frasnoise a inventé et développé ces types de WC et urinoirs. Les WC air9 sont équipé d’un système d’aspiration d’odeur. Les urinoirs air9 sont également équipés d’un système d’aspiration d’odeur et ont la particularité de fonctionner sans eau. Début des années 2000, la PME de l’inventeur s’est vue décernée une médaille d’or pour le WC sans odeurs, et une autre pour l’urinoir sans odeur et sans eau, et ce sur le salon mondial des innovations, de la recherche et des nouvelles technologies.
Eureka-Concept fut élue l’entreprise la plus innovante du Hainaut en 2006 et assure les installations dans toutes la Belgique et le nord de la France.
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Saturday, November 17

OCTAVIAN thanks Yves Rocher

I wish to thank the Cosmetic giant Yves Rocher and the perfume fairies working their amazing cosmetic scents for their new shower gel - Purple Rice from Laos. It is inspired by the forgotten Romanian perfume you see in my image. It was made in the 90's and its name is a take on my father's name when he was elected.
A drop of this perfume and a drop of Pour un Homme and you have the most luxurious version of Le Mâle (another perfume meant to disappear in France). I wish to underline that this perfume was made before Le Mâle, but as it is well known in the perfume industry, legends are made with money. Its number is from the golden number series, my concept, and contains a sequence of the original Beaux perfume - the musks. 


However, Purple Rice from Laos (Yves Rocher) uses the modern musks and their amazing cotton milky touch. I did not know those molecules in the 90's. There is also the special effect brought by the rice molecules.
In this picture you can see for the first time the perfume from the 90's. It is in excellent condition today, no oxidation. I use all the Yves Rocher shower gels as soon as they are created. They are made inside several labs I know very well.
OCTAVIAN expresses his profound gratitude to Yves Rocher for serving the perfume as an ART in those creations people could rarely associate with perfume art - the skin cosmetics and the beautiful scents which bring a taste of Paradise every morning. The 8th ART, the PERFUME, is applied to all levels of scents, no matter if they are extracts, shower gels or soaps.
OCTAVIAN wishes Yves Rocher, after Madonna (Coty) and Oriflame I previously evoked for their hommage, a golden future in the new dawn of perfumes and many cosmetics inspired by riches of Nature and its precious extract. The "plant one tree" concept found in every Yves Rocher store, will become very soon an obligation for all cosmetic companies, one of my goals for the future laws of the cosmetic industry in EU.   
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Chanel Silenzio Stampa and Skin Allergy

 
Is there LIFE after CHANEL?
The original formula of Chanel No5 used by Marilyn Monroe when she posed for Life magazine is in my collection as well as the old lab papers in original. It is not the perfume sold today by Chanel.

I am absolutely in love with the new artistic direction behind the two Inside Chanel movies, but there is something which needs to be explained to consumers.
In the middle of a European skin allergy and the reformulation of Chanel No5, Chanel promotes the perfume with a skin story and the nudity of Marilyn Monroe. Meanwhile, silenzio stampa about all the issues reported by the press. It is neither ethical, nor healthy. Other perfumers in Paris have suggested than perfumes are and can also be used on clothes. But Chanel explicitly promotes the use on skin when the skin is their problem - the allergies causing the change of Chanel No5. There is no official position and consumers, including those with skin problems are completely misguided right now when they make their Christmas purchases. 
Of course, you well never hear Chanel officially telling that Chanel No5 is not the original formula, nor that it right now under the spot because of allergies, not even that a "Fake" enters the museum as the "Original" work. But dream is something sold by marketing, health for consumers is another story.
This, and many other things are possible today in EU, because there is a little chaos in the legislation, many things are not settled down and the balance between brands, marketing and consumers has not a pharmaceutical precision. There is a need for order inside the chaos of beautiful scents.
I will think after the Romanian elections in December to several ways the EU legislation can be improved for the mutual benefit of the Perfume and the Consumer, giving a consistent and technical shape to my ideals.  This is because I never spoke on this blog about my background in politics (google my name, you'll find why I am entitled to do this change from Romania). In winter, people gather around the Christmas tree and they speak politics. This time, I intend to have a clear contribution for the Perfume. No words, action. The Romanian elections start this year on Ernest Beaux's birthday. A blog is just a perfume blog in a world rules by laws. The Perfume needs a new LIFE.

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Friday, November 16

Scent of Cosmos - COCO


"What do you wear in Space?" asked the LIFE journalist to the GOD of perfumes ... 
"Several drops of No.5, because it is the aether."
No5 might be sexual for the masses, according to the amazing new movie... But read also the other title on LIFE cover from April 7, 1952. Here you have Coco's meteorite in front of one Coromandel Screens and the Chinese throne given by BOY. The meteorite was not bought, it is a gift received in an antique London shop. I wonder where are some of the jewels stolen the night COCO passed away.
From a designer's perspective, there are many things to consider for the future of fashion and perfume house.


The new movie I showed you the other day. The true legend is the lost formula.
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