Thursday, June 20


El.Arden For Beauty
Dear readers,

After eight years of perfume writing here in the on-line space, following my first works devoted to the Art of Perfumes, it's time to announce a change which has been in the air for a while. New perfume raw materials from all corners of the world were presented today in Paris at the Société Française des Parfumeurs. A very special day for those who know me closely.
My new official position doesn't allow me to publish too much about the perfumes launched under various names on the market. I have decided to permanently close this address. If there are texts you loved, you can save them the next days. After, they will not be accessible anymore on this address, excepting several introductory articles - around 10-20 from the myrrhiad of my texts. They will be put in a book with other many detailed texts I wrote when it will be possible, if I have time and a good secretary. There are more than 5000 articles written in the past 8 years in various languages and websites (about a thousand only about aesthetics, formulation and creation), for more than 1,7  million perfume lovers which speak only one language - the Perfume. You can still discover many things on various other websites & forums about the new launches. I will preserve the beautiful addresses on the right bar of this page.
We'll see each others very soon in a new Beautiful context. The round bottle you see on top is "Je reviens" in red (the original was cobalt blue, cca eighty years ago).
I wish you a fabulous summer in the Perfume universe. There are many magnificent surprises.


I wish to thank all of you, my dear readers, for the kind and beautiful words you e-mailed me after the announcement I made yesterday. Hundreds of e-mails I hope to answer in private. It is not a goodbye message, but a new dawn in a new context - Beauty. It is not the critic, nor le discours which matter - but only the personal relation between the scent and the woman, an un-compromised beauty which is not changed by fashion or reformulation. The art of perfumes is a form of love - the Judgment of Pâris on Mount Ida. Hermès, a golden apple from the Garden of the Hesperides, which has the inscription "for the fairest one", Pâris, Hera, Athena, Aphrodite and the beautiful Helen.The Perfume, as wrote a beloved writer from La Sorbonne, has a mythical and divine dimension we could not neglect. It is the first form of ART.

There are several books written in the last decade that I recommend you as an introduction. Each of them represent something for me and each represent something for the new Renaissance of Perfume. First, there is Chandler Burr, who organized in 2012 the first American exhibition devoted to the 8th ART at MOD - New York. He published The Emperor of Scent and  The Perfect Scent. The second book made Jean Claude Ellena famous and ensured the success of Hermès. Perfumes: The A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez will guide you with the new genre which emerged in the last decade - perfume criticism. For the scientific background of the perfume, I recommend you the opus Scent and Chemistry the edition updated by the well known scientist Philip Kraft - he invented all the musks which adorn your skin in all products you use. If somebody loves your skin its because of a captive ingredient. There are also two literary novels which present the wonderful universe of perfume and its endless romances. The Perfume Lover which describes the birth of an artisan parfumeur and The Book of Lost Fragrances which presents the lost and re-discovered ancient book of formulae.

Among the modern perfume houses I presented on this blog, I wish to underline several which had a significant olfactory contribution to the new Renaissance of the perfume - Divine, Arquiste, Kilian, L'Artisan Parfumeur,  Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Patricia de Nicolaï, Olfactive Studio, Francis Kurkdjian, plus a more personal choice Le Huitième ART, inspired by me and my writings. This new decade was undoubtedly dominated by the work of several great names: Alberto Morillas, who signed an impressive number of ultra original creations à Genève, Daniela Andrier and her work for Prada in Paris, Yann Vasnier with Rodrigo Flores Roux for Arquiste and Tom FORD in New York, Calice Becker for Kilian. It is, obviously, a very short list for 1300 new launches this year, but the very good start for the appreciation of the art of perfumes and its new Renaissance. I left several articles on this blog, among them my L'Heure Bleue, the key perfume I love so much. After the blue hour, a new dawn for Beauty.

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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